Somnath

The Chennakesava temple of Somnathpura is an under rated, scaled down version of the magnificent Hoysala temples at Belur.

Getting there: From Bangalore proceed along Mysore highway, take the left turn at Mandya via Bannur to Somnathpur. From Mysore, take the Srirangapatnam Bannur road onward to Somnathpur.

The temple is well maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India. It is constructed upon a star shaped plinth, typical of Hoysala kingdom structures. Exquisite carvings and sculptures are to be found inside and outside the temple. The inner roofs also boast unique and exquisite carvings. An ancient inscription is near the entrance.

Somnathpura is a photographers delight, poetry in stone. I would recommend this as a must visit for anyone touring the Bangalore Mysore area, which can easily be done as a half day excursion from Bangalore or Mysore, or combined with a visit to Srirangapatnam, Ranganathittu and other such places. The Bannur to Srirangapatnam rural road is extremely scenic.

Thank GOD, Somnathpur temple is under the care of ASI and there is no priest performing mumbo jumbo.( No insults intended, since I myself am a Hindu) This is perhaps the primary reason why the temple is maintained in pristine condition.  The landscaping is excellent and it attracts more foreigners than domestic tourists being closer to Mysore.  Vandalism is minimum on the temple.  Some portions  of the missing link have been replaced by ASI.

The artisans who were unemployed after the Belur & Halebeed temple needed work so it seems, the general thought of bettering the design and concept of his masters. Somanth, who was a general wanted his name to be remembered in the annals of history, he commissioned the construction of this magnificient edifice during his period( 1254 – 1291 AD).

Soap stones have been used to carve out the magnificent statues which have been embedded inside the temple.  Images of Venugopala, Keshava and Janardhana are installed in three different chambers.  The beautifully carved pillars form the support structure for the edifice.  Ceiling of the temple is intricately carved with lingas( phallus shaped) which is unique feature of the temple.  The art of compression and miniaturization is seen to be believed.

The grandeur of the Hoysala era is exhibited on the outer panels of the temple.  Various scenes from the epics are depicted.  The battle scenes are intricately carved adding to the grandeur.  One gets a sneaking inkling that this temple dates back to the Ganga period which seems to have crumbled and the premise seems to have been reconstructed by the general to propagate his fame.

Mallitama, Masanthamma, Chameya, Bhameya etc are few of the artisans who have engraved the magnificient somathpur edifice.  One of the most drawbacks of planning authorities is that the Guide fees fixed seems to be extremely unreasonable.  ASI should infuse some discipline so that all the visitors are motivated to use the local guide.  Rs 25/- would be a reasonable fee for a family for a bus group of 30 members Rs 200 would be ideal.

The heat is extremely unbearable if one visits the spot in summer, but we were lucky to have benefited cyclonic weather.  It is better to finish the trip before 10 am.  A coir matting roll would be ideal if it is rolled across, it will give an impression of  a red carpet welcome.   Visitors are advised to carry an umbrella, it protects oneself from sun, rain and wind, elements of nature.

Somnathpur is just 37 kms from Mysore, do not miss this wonderful heritage at any cost.  It signifies the penultimate artistic talent of our artisans during the hoysala era.  Entry fee Rs 5/- Still camera free, Video Rs 25/- Parking Rs 10/-.

Lord Somnath - Keeping the word. There is something about Somnath that keeps sending reminders that I need to keep my word. A word to Lord Somnath. A word to the entire confluence of thoughts that grip me when I am on a pilgrimage. This time round I was there for six days, each taking in its stride the highs and lows of life.  A day in Dwarka ( Aug. 10th) where the mood had yet to set in for Janmashtami celebrations, the commute to Somnath was via Porbandar.

Somnath has a history replete with episodes of battle won and lost. Innumerable tales come rushing in if one tries to peek into the past. The documented reality is : the hope continues to manifold itself; the temple's tryst with challenges, umpteenth in nature (built, rampaged and rebuilt cycle), underlines the ever-growing sanctity and resurgence of believers. A visit during a June scorcher three years ago followed by another one last year,  and the one in a rain-lashed August (the sun hadn't come out for days together) this year,  has a tale raised with some degree of contrast.  An upgraded security structure this time and the emergence of prying eyes is enough to tell you that the place is not aloof from the convulsions of the outside world. Those used to moving with seamless ease in the past have to be prepared for some tough posturing from the cops if their actions are found to be suspect.

There are three gates that finally lead you to the sanctum sanctorum.

The first gate is right at the entrance followed by the one past the Hanumam Idol (reciting Hanuman Chalisa here takes you to a different plane altogether) and the final one, comprising small steps up and down, take you right opposite the Shiva idol from where one is supposed to take a u-turn (here the overwhelming connect with the Lord is the defining emotion and the interaction with the priest if need be begins and ends on a short notice). More so, a stay longer, if possible, one is privy to the rituals going inside. The wait here is momentary and you are shoved to the other side if it gets longer. Having seen the Shiva idol, there is a sudden rush of emotions that begin to reverberate for a longer duration. Once away from the priest-interacted spot, the natural intent is to look back again and again to discover if you are lucky enough to catch another fleeting glimpse. Past this tryst with the lord, the aarti during different points of a day is enough to take you to a higher spiritual pedestal. Right through the aarti session the priest rotates the aarti flame in a slow and steady pace in deep reverence to the Lord amidst beating of drums and playing of flute. This session (three times in a day) lasts 20 minutes and the aarti flame is carried to different points before coming back to the sanctum sanctorum. Those in attendance have been in the queue for a much longer period, not for a moment looking to be an exhausted tribe.

All in all, a feast for the eyes and a treat for all those whose faith hasn't been shaken and stirred by the unforeseeable events in their life.

As and when the Lord Somnath wills it I would be there. This is my word.

As for the commute from Ahmedabad to Dwarka, the ride would have taken close to 11 hrs. But the one from Somnath to Ahmedabad (through Junagad and Rajkot) took just seven hrs.

The best part was the Rajkot-Ahmedabad stretch (i have lost count of   the  number of times i have taken this route in the past )  with the vehicle doing close to 120kms an hour.

Mission Istanbul was the flick I was able to see in that two hrs duration. Not at all a bad one with pacy notes thrown here and there enough to keep you engaged.

Puneet Rajhans

Ahmedabad

August 18th, 2008

Somnath, the rise of phoneix, the story from rubbles to riches.

Reconstrued by Sardar Vallabhai Patel

Situated in south Gujarat, Somnath is a must visit for Shiva devottees, artists and beach lovers.

Places of interest include Museam, where the idols are preserved, the magnificient temple which is also a JHOTHIRLING. Also nearby is the place where Lord Krishna is said to have attainted Mukti when he has shot at by a hunter on his toe. The women folk in the area still wear black as a sign of mourning

It is well connected to the other important pilgrim centre Dwaraka. The drive from Dwaraka to Somnath is an exhilerating experience. Be there to experience the magic

The drive from Dwaraka is Somnath is full of places from History. Porbundar, the birthplace of Mahatma Gandhi is situated along

Diu, the Union territory is an 80 Km drive from Somnath

Somnath is a pilgrimage beach located on the shores of Arabian Sea in Veraval City of Gujarat. It has one of the most speactacular beaches I have come across at least in Gujarat. The twin advantage of having a famous temple along with the beach definitely helps to add variety to your holidays. The newly constructed temple looks astonishing and also gives the calmth one usually searches for in pilgrim places. There is a constant chanting of ''rudrams'' in praise of Lord Shiva which adds to the glory and power of the place. The main idol faces east so the first ray of the sun falls on it and you wont want to miss this if you are to visit Somnath. As soon as you come out of the temple there is a big lawn well maintained for having a stroll. You can spend hours here without doubt. Every evening, the temple is lit wonderfully with decorative lights. This starts at around 7 till 9. Its worth seeing.

The beach is on the other side of the temple. The temple is constructed at quite a height from bech level. So you have to climb down quite a bit to reach the water. The beach is NOT well developed. But at the same time it is not commercialised too. Only during festive seasons it is visited by more people. Usually it is not populated AT ALL. But it is very clean and if you are in a mood to enjoy the water in the calm Arabian sea, this is the place.

Somnath is easily aproachable from Ahmedabad in an overnight train journey. You need to get down at Veraval from where you can catch either a taxi or an auto rickshaw to reach there. There is not a very good option of hotels available. At the same time the place would start boring you in 2 to 3 days. So if you have more time in your holiday schedule make Somnath one of the places while visiting Saurashtra. The weather would remain hot so the best SEASON TO VISIT IS WINTER.

Somnath

Legends & History

Somnath at Patan, near Veraval in Gujarat is a pilgrimage centre held in great reverence throughout India and is considered to be the first of the 12 Jyotirlingas of Shiva. Somnath is situated on the south coast of Saurashtra and a hallowed province of present day Gujarat, mentioned even in Puranas.

Legend has it that the Kalabhairava Shivalinga (Bhairavanatha) at Prabhasa was worshipped by the Moon God, and hence Shiva here is referred to as Somnatha. The Skanda Purana describes the Sparsha Linga of Somnath as one bright as the sun, the size of an egg, lodged underground. The Mahabharata also refers to the Prabhasa Kshetra and the legend of the Moon worshipping Shiva.

Now for another digression! Legend goes that the moon was married to the 27 daughters of Daksha Prajapati. He was partial to Rohini, his favourite and neglected the others. An angered Daksha cursed him to wane into nothingness. A disturbed Chandra, came down to Prabhasa with Rohini and worshipped the Sparsha Linga of Somnath after which he was blessed by Shiva to grow and shine in the bright half. As the moon regained his light here, this town came to be known as Prabhasa. Brahma, one of the trinity, installed the Brahmasila, and paved way for the construction of the temple.

The glory and wealth of Somnath was described by the Arab traveller Al Biruni, and his accounts prompted visits by various invaders leading to repeated destruction and reconstruction of this famed temple.

In the year 1783, Queen Ahilyabhai Holkar built a new temple nearby, and in 1951, the president of India re-installed the Jyotirlingam of Shiva on the same Brahmasila on which earlier temples had been built. The present day temple is a majestic marble and stone structure. Entrance to the town of Somnath is through the Junagadh Gate. There are also the remains of an ancient Sun temple at Somnath. To the east of the town is the Bhalka Theertha connected with the legend of Krishna's final departure from the mortal world.

Reaching there:

Veraval can be reached easily from Ahmedabad by express trains timed conveniently. The affluent traveller can reach from Keshod airport or the famous Diu airport. Accommodation facilities are reasonably good. Some important places of interest that can be clubbed with Somnath are Gir forest (Junagadh), Dwarka, Bet Dwarka and

Related pilgrimages Dwarka & Nageshwar:

While Gujarat state transport corporation runs many buses in these sectors, the quality of the buses are very poor. Some private buses are also available offering packaged tour of Somnath, Dwarka, Nageshwar and other notable pilgrimage centres in that province. In case you are travelling in a group especially with the family, I would recommend hiring a vehicle in order to minimize inconvenience and maximize the pleasure in visiting these sacred places. While driving from Diu, one has to take to the state highway (West Coast highway) which runs along the coast. The drive along the highway with the Arabian Sea coastline on one side and green patches of cultivated land (contrasted by barren lands and beaches) on the other side is an impression that I always carry in my memory. One can easily cover Somnath, Dwarka and Nageshwar in the same day. Porbandar, the land of our Mahatma Gandhi comes enroute.

Nageshwar, one of the 12 Shrines of Shiva is located on the route between Dwarka and the Bet Dwarka island, on the coast of Saurashtra in Gujarat. Reference to Nageshwar is also found in the Puranas.

Legend has it that a devotee by name Supriya, was attacked by a demon Daaruka, while in a boat and that the demon imprisoned him along with several others at his capital Daarukaavana, where he resided with his wife Daaruki. Shiva appeared in the form of a Jyotirlingam and vanquished the demon with the Paasupata Astram.

This Jyotirlinga manifestation is worshipped as Nageswara at this shrine.

This temple is not as famous as Somnath and is also less crowded. When I had visited the temple last, that was in late 1999, the temple was being renovated. I guess the temple renovation job must have been completed by now. A convenient way for the Mumbai traveller is to take the Saurashtra mail going right upto Okha and visit Dwarka, Bet Dwarka and Nageshwar.

So, if you are planning to visit Somnath, do not forget to conveniently club Dwarka and Nageshwar in the itinerary.